The churchyard still exists and is a popular tree-shaded haven from the traffic. The main square exists in plan only, for the essential enclosure of buildings and the rhythm or arcading are no more.

Regarded as a Mecca of arcading for anyone in Shanghai (and more broadly, #China), Liehuo is a haven for folks like our interviewees Xu Xuelai (35) and Yang Dong'er (29). Xu talks to us about his ...