It's bare bones. I don't want to end up like Whakapapa village." In Ohakune, the mood is confident as Pure Tūroa's 10-year lease to run skiing operations on that side of the mountain begins.

A new series of ski tours in the Laurentian Mountains combine rigorous days of cross-country skiing with overnight stays (and meals) at local inns. A new series of ski tours in the Laurentian ...