Season the goose well with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Put the quartered onion and three bay leavers into the goose body cavity and cover the legs with folded triangles of foil.

Here is a picture of an all-white barnacle goose that recently turned up in the 5,000-strong Sligo flock that we monitor. Is it rare? – Vianney Tully, Sligo Well, it certainly didn’t get to ...