Preheat the oven to 220C/425F/Gas 7 (fan 200C). Rub the fillet of beef with plenty of salt and pepper and the oil. Heat a large frying pan until very hot. Fry the fillet on all sides until browned.

then you’ve got to go for fillet. But it doesn’t have very much flavour.” Flavour often comes from meat taken from parts of the cow that have done more “work”, so for Foster, rib-eye ...