A report from a forgotten city. A small restaurant in Abukir, a dreary suburb of Alexandria, serves spicy fish soup and seafood. Ismael, the owner, asks if anyone wants to drink beer in secret.

Located twelve miles outside of Alexandria, diners can enjoy a scenic view of Kincaid Lake with their meal. On the menu is Tunk's Seafood Platter that includes “Miss Mayme's famous seafood gumbo ...